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8月5日 CHECK OUT KIT'S RAISE (YOUR) VOICE VIDEOKit decided to raise her voice with a message why she supports (RED)™. Check it out: Now it's your turn! We want to get to know you and hear what you've got to say. Show your creativity and Raise (YOUR) Voice. It's so easy! Learn more 8月3日 THANK YOU CHICAGO!!We want to thank everyone who came out to our Raise (YOUR) Voice street karaoke events this past weekend in Chicago. People all over the Windy City came together to help Windows and Dell (PRODUCT) RED™ raise awareness about AIDS in Africa while raising their voices with some (RED)™ hot singing! Check out some of the photos from the road: 7月31日 BEHIND-THE-SCENES WITH A JOINRED VIDEO ARTIST
There has been an incredible amount of creativity that has gone into (RED)™. Some really talented video artists have come together to support the Windows and Dell (PRODUCT) RED™ campaign to Get a More Powerful PC. Using a little stop-motion photography, some ingenious materials and a whole lot of imagination, their results are extraordinary. Check out this video, “Dominoes”: One of the artists behind “Dominoes,” Tim Fort, was kind enough to write about his experience creating the video. We’ve all played with dominoes as kids, lining them up and knocking them down, but Tim takes the game to a whole new level:
As an International Man of Kinetic Artistry, I find myself
going to interesting spots around the globe: Belgium,
New York Mills, Las Vegas, and the
latest, Seattle. Earlier this
month, I found myself in a studio space at Seattle Grip and Lighting, working
on a project for Microsoft and their Windows (PRODUCT) RED. My assignment was
to design, in dominoes, various motifs: a computer, (RED) logo, a pill, heart, Africa,
and musical notes. These icons represent what happens when people buy something
(RED): people buy a computer, which is (RED), which raises money for
medication, a sign of solidarity and love, going to people in Africa.
The music notes are for the street karaoke part of the event where everyone can
raise their voice for awareness of this cause. As with most video shoots, there
was a lot of effort and creativity crammed into two long shooting days. It's
the kind of work, though, that I find stimulating--working with bright,
artistic people in an energetic environment where one's own efforts have a
large impact on the final video.
You can check out Tim’s video along with all of the other
captivating videos in all of their full glory at the Raise (YOUR) Voice events
throughout the country – just check out the schedule in the upper right hand
corner of this blog. 7月30日 DO THE (RED) THING - RAISE YOUR VOICE
Raise your voice for (RED) and you could be featured on this Web site. Here's how:
I’m from: Home of the: I support (RED) because: With a More Powerful PC, I’d: I’d like to raise my voice and say:
We'll be featuring videos right here.
5月24日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 23
Everest Team INSPI(RED) is happy to be sending you this dispatch from the safe confines of Base Camp! For the past two days, we have been working our way down from the South Col, after our successful summit of Mount Everest on the morning of May 22nd. As previously reported, we left to begin our climb at about 10:30, the evening of the 21st. The weather was really mild, meaning warm with no wind, but the biggest challenges came from the number of people attempting a summit. After much hard work and climbing, we were able to reach the summit successfully at about 8:00 in the morning, a few hours after the sun came up. The summit was crowded but fortunately the weather was really quite warm with calm winds, and a little snow and clouds. We were able to spend a little over an hour on top, sharing in the emotion of the experience and all that brought us here. After some summit photos, we began our descent back to the South Col. We are now happy to be back at base camp, having achieved a goal that we set out to accomplish months ago. We want to thank everyone for the overwhelming support for our success and for the support of (PRODUCT) RED™ . We have stood at the top of the world, but at the base of human need And every step to get here, was taken with purpose over speed Unity, strength and a vision of change brought us here And the most important thing encouraging us was the absence of fear We urge you to make a choice for humans, a choice for change And be confident that the destinations that seem the furthest are within range Melissa Arnot Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月22日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 22 - Summit Dispatch
After much weather watching last night we decided to depart for our summit attempt at 10:30 PM. We slowly made our way up, moving among about 70 or 80 other climbers. The number of people as well as dry, rocky conditions made for slow walking - almost causing us to turn around at various points. After all of that at 8:10 AM on May 22 Nepal date and time, Everest Team INSPI(RED) and 2 Sherpa Tsering Dorjee and Fura Kancha stood together on top of the world at 29,035 ft. With a combination of perseverance and luck we are now safely back at Camp IV in the South Col. We will check in from Base Camp in a few days and further describe our adventure with photos. Thank you everyone for all of your support and good thoughts. It's now time for us to get some much needed sleep. This one's for you - Bono, Bobby, Susan, Tamsin, Ron, Collin, Kate and the rest of the amazing (RED) Team! Jeff Dossett, Melissa Arnot and David Morton Everest Team INSPI(RED) Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch is brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月21日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 21
This is Jeff, Dave and Melissa checking in from the South Col on Mount Everest at about 26,000 ft. After a good night’s rest at Camp III we headed up to Camp IV early this morning and climbed with oxygen for our first day. Everybody is feeling really well. As soon as we got in we promptly made ourselves comfortable with soup and hot drinks in our tents. We are just resting up and getting ready for what we have in store. We will check in shortly. Everest Team INSPI(RED) Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch is brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月20日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 20Today has been a busy day at Camp II. In addition to resting and eating in preparation for our summit bid, we have been organizing equipment and deciding what to bring up with us. We will need to bring (or wear) our down summit suits as well as some warmer base layers for underneath. Tomorrow morning we are heading to Camp III at about 4 o'clock am, which is a cold time of day above 21,000 feet, so we will likely be wearing most of our warm layers. Gloves are very important, and we will each be wearing a warm, insulated pair, as well as carrying extra gloves and down mittens. In addition to all the warm gloves, we will have chemical hand warmers, in case it gets really cold. As you can see in the photos, we all are wearing the warmest mountaineering boots that are available, which are basically two pairs of boots inside each other, with built in over boots, or gaiters. We will be wearing warm wool socks, with chemical toe warmers, or battery operated warming socks, to keep our toes warm if need be. In addition to warm clothes, we will be carrying safety equipment; first aid kits and radios for communication with our base camp. We also have plenty of camera equipment and we will be carrying various banners from our supporters. All in all, the preparation has been going very well, as we pack and prepare for our early departure tomorrow. We are all getting very excited to be getting closer to our goal. There has been so much preparation to get to this point, we are now trying to stay focused and strong. EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) was conceived to build awareness of (PRODUCT) RED and to inspire others to do what they can help in the fight against HIV/AIDS in Africa. We thank you all for following along as we make our final push to the summit during the next week. As I mentioned in an earlier post, reaching the summit of Mount Everest requires perseverance, dedication and a healthy dose of inspiration. We are blessed with plenty of inspiration including the kind words of support that we have received from many of you. Whenever I am in need of a little boost in motivation, I take a good long look at the incredible quilted banners hand-crafted by the volunteers at the Hillcrest AIDS Centre Trust in South Africa. These banners remind me of why we are here and the amazingly proud and capable people living with HIV/AIDS that we are trying to help. I thank you again for making the personal effort to learn more about (PRODUCT) RED and the many great products and services offered by the proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED. For more details see www.joinred.com. I'd also like to share a short poem that I think of often during the more difficult moments here on the mountain: "Life is not measured by the number of breaths we take, but by the number of moments that take our breath away". (Anonymous) Over the next few days, as we make our final push to the summit, there will no doubt be many moments that take our breath away (and not just a result of a lack of oxygen)! BUY RED. SAVE LIVES. JOINRED.COM Melissa Arnot and Jeff Dossett Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch is brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月17日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 19The time has come to leave the relative comforts of our base camp and head into extreme altitudes. Tomorrow morning at 3:30 we plan to here for our final push through the ice fall and on to CII. On Monday the 19th we will take a rest day there at over 21,000 feet. On the 20th we move to CIII and on the 21st to CIV or the ‘South Col’. We’ll then have two opportunities to try for the summit. The first would come on the night of the 21st putting us on the summit in the early hours of May 22. We will also have enough oxygen to spend over 24 hours on the South Col and make an attempt the night of the 22nd putting us on the summit early on the 23rd. That decision will be based on weather and the condition of the team once we are in place at CIV. Up here even the best laid plans are subject to quick changes and our flexibility will serve us well if conditions on the mountain present differently than expected. The past week has been a wonderful one for Jeff, Melissa and I. We had the opportunity to drop down more than 5,000 feet from base camp and enjoy the incredible number of rhododendrons blooming. The grass in the meadows in Deboche was beginning to green and all around there was flowing streams. It was a delight. As you could see from the pictures in the last dispatch we truly relaxed. We also were able to visit the Tengboche Monastery, the largest in the Khumbu. Base camp is beginning to take on the characteristic feel of a summit week. There’s a great deal of excitement and anxiousness coupled with a sense of things starting to wrap up. All of the climbers sense that the end of the quest could be near and it makes for a tense but exciting time. So far the season has been blessed with little in the way of accidents and tragedy. We intend to keep it that way as we ascend into what feels like the heavens and look down across the sweeping Tibetan plateau, the valleys of Nepal and the Indian sub-continent. We’ll be in touch from above. DAVID MORTON Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月16日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 18It is good to be back ‘home’ to base camp today, after a few days of resting in Debouche, although, the resting was pretty great. After lunch at base camp today, we pulled out our oxygen equipment and practiced using it, before the air gets too thin! This year, we will be using new technology masks (field tested on Everest in 2007). We practiced attaching the regulators to our masks and to the oxygen tanks. It is very exciting to be getting our final stages of preparation out of the way. To rest and recover in preparation for our final summit push, we decided to hike all the way from base camp (about 17,600 feet) down valley to Debouche at about 12,500 feet. This “rest low and recover” technique was originally developed by Russian mountaineers in the 1970s and it is employed by most teams here at Everest. We hiked for about 13 miles from base camp to Debouche and were rewarded by green grass, trees and a lot more oxygen. In Debouche we had a very busy time…sleeping in the grass and walking in the lush green forests that we have been missing. Okay, so maybe the life of climbers isn’t so hard, but we sure took advantage of the relaxation. There is a nearby village with the largest and most famous monastery in the Khumbu valley, Tengboche, where we went for lunch and tried to power our computers to send some photos, but the ‘cyber-café’ was closed for the season (I think a yak walked through the cables). At the lodge we were staying at, there was one power outlet, and the power came from a waterwheel, which was often diverted, which meant no power! As you are looking at the photos that we are posting, I know you are wondering how David, Jeff and I are so stylish while climbing…okay, maybe that isn’t a question anyone is asking! Nonetheless, some people have offered enormous support to outfit us for this expedition. David and Jeff are graciously supported by Outdoor Research (www.outdoorresearch.com) for a significant part of their outerwear, and Melissa received tremendous support from Zappos.com and the amazing design team at Mountain Hardwear, particularly Dan Ramos with endless pairs of gloves and Chris Hillard for super awesome (and warm) sleeping bags. Remote Medical International has also been a great supporter, providing first aid supplies (and letting Melissa leave work for three months)! We are so lucky to have so many professional partners that believe in what we are doing, but like we have said before, it is the support of all of the individuals, and their support of (PRODUCT) RED™ that means the most to us. As we get rested, and as we prepare to head back up the mountain for our summit push, we are all feeling very thankful. We are so appreciative of all of the support that people have been showing, not just for our climbing goals, but for (PRODUCT) RED™ and the amazing things that we can all do as consumers to make a positive difference in the lives of people living with HIV/AIDS in Africa. Whenever we meet someone in a tea house, it is so encouraging to hear them say, with excitement, that when they get home they will learn more about (PRODUCT) RED™ or when they tell us about the (PRODUCT) RED™ products or services that they have purchased. These are the people that make the difference and drive the overwhelmingly positive change in the world health crisis of HIV/AIDS in Africa. Melissa Arnot Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月12日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 17What a different scene we are experiencing today! We woke up this morning to six inches of new snow covering base camp. Even with the snow and the cold, it feels really good to be breathing the thicker air here. We left Camp II yesterday morning and headed through Camp I and the ice fall, to arrive at base camp for lunch and an afternoon nap. As we were descending, a steady stream of climbers and Sherpa were heading up to Camp III, where we had been the previous day. With the schedule and climbing restrictions that we have been facing this season, it has created a more limited window for people to move up, and that was very obvious with the ‘ant line’ of climbers heading up for acclimatization. The previous morning we left Camp II at 6 o’clock a.m. to head up the Lhotse face to Camp III for our own acclimatization. This was the first day that the ropes were fixed (thank you David and Sherpa!) and climbers could move up. The first hour of walking brought us to the base of the ice, where the wall gets steep. The early morning walking is always my favorite, with crampons piercing the snow and speaking to the mountain. The temperature outside was pretty chilly, keeping our hands and toes cold. Once we got to the Lhotse face, we swung our hands around to warm them up, took a drink of water and started up the wall. The first section of the slope had some soft, new snow, so as we moved our ascenders up the rope it was easy to stand mostly on our feet, but that soon changed. The teams that fixed the ropes the previous day did an exceptional job, and there were two ropes so that even with many climbers, we didn’t have to wait long to keep moving up. Parts of the slope were steep, blue ice that required a lot of attention and a bit of work. After a few hours of walking we arrived at Camp III, at about 23,000 feet. The camp was set up on a small snow ledge, ready for us on our next ascent. After a little rest up high, we began our descent into Camp II. We arrived early in the afternoon, in time for soup and another nap! We are thankful to be down low again, resting up for our summit push. The next time that we go up will be with the intention of continuing past Camp III, onto four and then to the summit. We will be watching the weather closely, as well as the other groups, to insure our best chance at the summit. Today we are leaving Base Camp, and heading to a little village, Debouche for some rest and recovery before heading up again. We will be down below 14,000 for about 4 days, eating fried food, drinking some soda, and sleeping in real beds! Mother's Day is being celebrated back in the states, and we all agree, we couldn’t be here without the support and encouragement that our mothers have given us over the years. Happy Mother’s Day Jill (Jeff’s Mom), Harriett (David’s Mom), and Debbie (Melissa’s mom), we love you. Melissa Arnot 5月10日 Happy Mother's DaySome of you may be wondering what kind of a connection exists between Everest Team INSPI(RED) and Mother’s Day. At first glance, it may appear to be an unrealistic leap: a climbing team attempts to summit Mt. Everest on one continent to raise awareness about HIV/AIDS in another. The connection is simple: It is the unbreakable bond of our human community. After all, we are all sisters and brothers, living together, on mother Earth. The members of Everest Team INSPI(RED), global citizens all, could have answered the call to service in a myriad ways. Instead, they chose to raise awareness about the HIV/AIDS in Africa, shine their light on the stories of hope among men, women and children living with HIV/AIDS and inspire each of us to do what we can to help in the fight. There are 33.2 million people living with HIV/AIDS. Africa—which has just over 10% of the world's population—is home to 68% (22.5 million). The disease is the leading cause of death in Africa, with approximately 4,400 people dying every day from AIDS. Women—many of them mothers—make up almost 61% of adults living with HIV in Sub-Saharan Africa and, as a result, women and children are the hardest hit by the disease. An estimated 11.4 million children in Africa have been orphaned because of HIV/AIDS already and this number is growing. More than 1,000 children, most within sub-Saharan Africa, are infected with HIV each day. But every time an adult begins AIDS treatment including antiretroviral drugs, or ARVs, the survival of children becomes less precarious. It costs just 40 cents to fund the two pills a day needed to keep someone with HIV in Africa alive. Still, more than 70% of the people in Sub-Saharan Africa live on fewer than two dollars a day and can not afford this medicine. AIDS is a preventable, treatable disease in Africa if the means exist to buy and administer the medicine that is needed. (RED) works with the world's best brands to make unique (PRODUCT) RED-branded products and direct up to 50% of their gross profits to the Global Fund to invest in African AIDS programs with a focus on the health of women and children. Everest Team INSPI(RED) leader, Jeff Dossett: Please don't forget that Sunday, May 11th is Mother's Day in the US. I encourage you to visit Hallmark Gold Crown stores or www.hallmark.com/RED to consider the purchase of Hallmark's amazing (PRODUCT) RED cards and gift items. Thank you for learning more about (PRODUCT) RED and for making purchase decisions that can and do make a difference to those living with HIV/AIDS in Africa! Friends of Everest Team INSPI(RED) This Stateside Edition dispatch, is brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. Everest Team INSPI(RED) 16
Life at camp II has been busy the past few days. Since the Chinese summated on the North side of the mountain, carrying the Olympic torch, on the 8th, we are now free to move above Camp II. As soon as we heard the news, camp became busy with Sherpa dividing ropes to begin fixing the route to Camp III. They worked all afternoon yesterday, allowing us the chance to climb about 1000 feet above camp today. The fixing continued up to Camp III today, so tomorrow we will be able to climb the Lhotse face, and touch Camp III before heading back to Camp II for our nights rest. Tomorrow holds our most difficult and steep climbing to date, and the air is getting thinner, as we felt today. While Jeff and I took an acclimatization hike, Dave spent the day today on the Lhotse face fixing the ropes we will climb tomorrow. We are all feeling really well, and are incredibly excited to have a chance to move higher up. We will check in again from Base Camp in a few days. Melissa Arnot Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 5月6日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 15Today is a beautiful morning at Camp II, at 21,500 feet. After returning to base camp from our time spent at a lower altitude, we spent a few days resting and preparing for our big move up. Yesterday morning we awoke at 4 o'clock am and started our long walk to Camp II. We decided to bypass a night of sleep at Camp I, and endure a longer day, getting us all the way to Camp II. The early morning walking in the ice fall was a really pleasant temperature. The sun came up, shining on the nearby peaks, while a cloud of fog sat over the top of base camp. After we took a break at Camp I to shed some layers, we began the long, hot walk through the Western Cwm to camp two. This part of the walk is tough, with the heat and the altitude. Before the expedition, Jeff talked about how a big part of mountaineering is being uncomfortable for a long time...that was yesterday. It is hard to say how hot it was, but the sun was hitting us from every side and reflecting off the snow. After a few hours of walking Pemba Nuru, one of our Sherpa, met us with some cookies and cold juice. I think that was the best part of the day! We got into Camp II in the early afternoon, and have been making ourselves comfortable ever since, eating and drinking as much as possible. It is a little difficult to get a good nights sleep at this altitude, but we are all doing well and trying to rest and acclimatize. Today we are going to work on making our tent platforms a little flatter, as the ice melts underneath them, and rest, rest, rest. Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. Melissa Arnot 5月1日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 14What a joy to be sitting at just below 14,000 ft. here in Pheriche. We’ve had a couple of enjoyable nights sleeping in the relatively thick air. In the morning we head back to BC in order to prepare for our next foray up to CII and hopefully beyond. Over the past couple of hours sitting in Ang Nuru’s comfortable lodge I’ve watched dozens of Sherpa heading home for the next 4 or 5 days. Because of the unusual season this year related to the carrying of the Olympic torch to the summit on the Chinese side of the mountain there have been rampant rumors about restrictions. The expedition leaders have been meeting every few days to try and clarify much of the confusion and we’ve been relatively successful. The schedule for TEAM INSPI(RED)’s climbing at this point has been based on the latest agreements and understanding between the expedition leaders, the military, and the Ministry of Tourism. That being said, as I’ve spoken to some of my Sherpa friends today, the agreements may change once again. We came to Pheriche yesterday knowing that we would not be able to climb above BC on the 1st and 2nd of May. The plan now is to arrive back at BC on the 1st and then climb to CII on the 3rd or 4th. The rumors today from Sherpa friends is that climbing above BC may be postponed until a few days later. As with most information this season it is only speculation until something solid comes about which can happen at any moment. Regardless, we are sticking to a similar schedule that I’ve used during my other four summits, and letting the political cards fall where they may. So, a wrap up as to our expectations of the next month, subject to change at any minute! We will head back to BC arriving either the 1st or 2nd of May. As soon as we are permitted- hopefully the 3rd- we will climb to CII and spend approximately four nights there. In a typical season the goal is to spend one night at CIII in order to complete an attempt at acclimatizing to 7000 meters (23,000’). This season the fixing of the route to CIII will likely be delayed longer than we can wait for an acclimatization climb. Therefore, we’ll spend the 4 or 5 nights at CII acclimatizing to that elevation and hopefully climbing above to CIII. After this next foray to the heights of CII we will drop back down to BC at 17,500’. Then again we’ll come to Pheriche at 14,000’ for one night and continue even further down to the lush creeks and greenery of Deboche at 12,500’. Just thinking about it makes me smile and relax! After a couple of wonderful nights of movies and cards in Deboche we’ll take two days to return to BC. That will put us back in BC around the 13th of May to gear up mentally for the summit push. With such a schedule I’ll be expecting a possible summit attempt between the 20th and 25th of May. There are many factors affecting this window including first and foremost the weather outlook. Another major factor is of course the health and readiness of the team. And this season we have the restrictions imposed on our movement because of the Chinese Olympic torch summit attempt. The decision making regarding summit attempts on 8000 meter peaks is as much an art form as a scientific decision. In this day and age our resources for analyzing health of climbers and our resources for predicting weather trends have improved to a surprising degree. But if one is really to be honest there is a great degree of subjective information. Many of those decisions come down to a ‘gut feeling’ based on previous experience and previous processing of similar information. That is where the art comes in; balancing these factors in an attempt to make the summit while ensuring the degree of risk is sufficiently mitigated. In the coming weeks we’ll be practicing our balance and tapping into that ‘art’. David Morton Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 4月30日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 13After enjoying a breakfast of fried Tibetan bread and eggs this morning, we are all relaxing in the warm sun in a tea house in Pheriche. Yesterday morning, after breakfast at base camp, we decided that since we have a few rest days ahead of us, we should venture to even lower climates, and we decided on Pheriche, at about 14,000 feet, which we stayed at on our trek in. The style that we are climbing Mount Everest in centered around staying healthy for a summit bid, but also staying strong. When we are climbing at an elevation above 18,000 feet, it is considered ‘extreme altitude’, and our bodies struggle to adjust. Most people think of the term ‘thin air’ and assume that there is a lack of oxygen up high. The truth is that there is a change in the pressure in the atmosphere, which allows the oxygen the spread out, or get thin, so that with each breath we get a little less. In addition to that, our bodies are adjusting and trying to adapt in subtle ways that we don’t even notice. As we trekked up to Base Camp, we spent almost two weeks so that our bodies could adjust from sea level to 17,000 feet. Once at base camp, we spent the first week just resting. As we are resting and adjusting, our breathing increases naturally, to help get more of the available oxygen. Also, though it isn’t something we can feel, we create more red blood cells, which are the carriers of oxygen throughout our bodies. While resting at base camp, we try to do some light activity every day, which helps the acclimatization process. After the week spent at base camp, our bodies were well enough adjusted to climb to higher elevations. We climb only a few thousand feet each day, and then sleep there, giving us a chance to adjust before going higher. It is almost impossible for any human to permanently adapt to the pressure changes and ‘thin air’ above 18,000 feet. It gets difficult to sleep and eat, and you need more calories just to sustain minimal activity and keep warm. That is why we only spend a few nights up high and then return to Base Camp, to eat, sleep and rest, before heading up again. It takes weeks for our bodies to start adjusting to the altitude, and when we descend to Base Camp or lower, we retain the benefits of having been up high, so we are ready for the next trip up. Unfortunately the most important benefits don’t last much longer than a week, so tomorrow we will head back to base camp, well rested and feeling strong, and begin our acclimatization trips back up again. Melissa Arnot Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 4月28日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) 12We're sitting here in the late afternoon snow squalls at Camp I near 19,500 feet in the Western Cwm (pronounced “koom”). The Western Cwm is the large horseshoe shaped cirque that is created by the West Shoulder of Everest on the north and the Lhotse-Nuptse ridgeline on the east and south. Most of the time it is protected from winds and therefore becomes effectively an oven with the reflection of the sun coming from 3 out of 4 directions. It's hot, it's high, and it's an absolute visual marvel. It is difficult to describe the beauty of such an intense environment. It often feels as if one is in a world of black and white because the only physical landscape is snow, ice and shades of black rock. The man made clothing and tents dot the landscape like little dabs of paint in a monochrome world. We departed base camp at 6:30am and we arrived here at Camp I yesterday around 11am Nepal time. The trip through the Icefall was smooth and uneventful - just as we like it to be. We were all feeling strong and relaxed. My voice is trying hard to return and every now and then I get an hour or so of a nearly normal voice. We all dozed off throughout the afternoon and escaped the heat of the direct sun by lying in our completely vented tents. The altitude and sun here are so strong that when you relax in your tent for the afternoon one's body and mind seem 'cooked'. It can be hard to read or write or be productive in typical ways. The most appropriate thing most often seems to be to just total relaxation. It's now about 5 p.m. and TEAM INSPI(RED) is cooking up our second dinner here at Camp I. Tomorrow morning, we will climb to Camp II and spend the following two evenings there at over 21,000 feet. Camp II sits at the base of the massive southwest face of Everest. This season, the southwest face is looking unusually dry and bare. It would be helpful for the route to get some new snow between now and our summit push in late May. If not, we’ll deal with the dryness which mainly results in a bit more rockfall and slightly more difficult footing. After enjoying a night sleeping in our -40 degree bags and trying not to think of the warming spring back home, we awoke at 6 a.m. to head to Camp II. The route to Camp II starts out rolling up and down through huge crevasses with a few ladders. After about an hour of walking, we crested a hill, which showed us a view of the tents at Camp II, unfortunately the Camp I tents look an awful lot closer! The terrain is really calm, not very steep or crevassed from here to Camp II, but it is slow going at 20,000 feet! We took about four hours to get to Camp II (except Jeff, who had a little extra motivation to move quickly, and let us just say, he was happy to see all the tents at Camp II, especially the toilet tent!). Once at Camp II we relaxed with soup and lunch made by Ang Tsering (one of our Sherpa staff), who will stay at Camp II to support us for the majority of the season. Time passes slowly up here, and we mostly try to just eat and breathe. After dinner, we sat in the dining tent for as long as possible (which amounted to a few minutes at best) and then headed for the warmth of our sleeping bags. After one day of rest and acclimatization at Camp II, it was time to head down to the tropical lower regions of base camp. We woke up around 6 a.m., to try and finish all of our walking before the heat of the sun would hit us, which worked a little too well, as we walked down a little chilled in the wind. We arrived back at base camp at about 11:30am, just in time for lunch and showers! It is good to be back lower, though we are very thankful to have spent a few days up higher, with all of TEAM INSPI(RED) feeling healthy and strong. David Morton, Melissa Arnot and Jeff Dossett Today’s EVEREST TEAM INSPI(RED) expedition dispatch brought to you by Dell and Windows, proud partners of (PRODUCT) RED™. 4月24日 Everest Team INSPI(RED) Climbing RouteThis entry is brought to you courtesy of Alpine Ascents the expedition leader for Everest Team INSPI(RED).
At base camp, our climbing leaders and Sherpa will be well on the way to having the lower part of the mountain (the Khumbu Ice Fall) already fixed with ropes and ladders. We will establish four camps on the mountain. The first, at 19,500ft, is situated at the top of the ice fall. This camp functions as an intermediate camp until Camp II (advanced base camp) is established at 21,000ft.
Camp II will consist of large tents for cooking and dining and several smaller tents for sleeping. Camp II will be our base during the placements of Camp III and Camp IV (23,500ft and 26,300ft respectively). Camp III, which stands at the head of the cirque on the Lhotse face will consist of three and four man tents. This camp serves as an intermediate camp which climbers will use to reach Camp IV (high camp) on the South Col.
Most of our Sherpa are able to carry directly from Camp II to Camp IV, so large amounts of gear are not needed at Camp III to establish Camp IV. Oxygen will be used above Camp III to help aid climbers in reaching high camp before attempting the summit. From Camp IV, we travel along the South East Ridge to the South Summit. From here we traverse for a few hundred meters before reaching the Hillary step and then onto the main summit.
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